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Subject AIV deletion in 5 easy steps
     
Posted by mousersix (San Antonio) on March 09, 2005 at 1:19 AM
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Message this writeup is to supplement fourZero's original writeup with more in depth assembly removal instructions/pictures.

AIV - air induction valve. basically, in earlier model Z's this system was implemented to sort of lean out the exhaust by injecting fresh air into the system. the system is only active during idle and is purely for emissions control. this is a writeup to help anyone remove this system if he/she so pleases. pretty much all aftermarket ecu's come with the AIV delete program, so if you have an ecu upgrade with AIV's, you've basically got a bunch of extra weight and unecessary clutter in your engine bay/wheel wells.

timing- any time your front wheels are off. i did this in about 30 minutes on my '90 NA while it is out of comission (waiting for new motor), so my exhaust is already out which made things slightly easier.

tools needed
phillips head screwdriver
10mm socket w/ extension

1. take wheels off. i have diagrams for only one side (passenger side), but its pretty much a no brainer for the other side as it is exactly the same.


2. remove various bolts/fasteners/screws (marked in green) from the fender liner behind the wheel.


3. once the liner is loose, bend it back out of the way so you can get at the AIV assy. marked in blue is what will be removed. the green dots are the retaining bolts (10mm). before you remove the bolts on the unit, disconnect the hose that leads to the catalytic converter.

the big hose leading up goes to a small air intake box for the AIV system only. its safe to leave it up there. you can try removing it but it looks like a PITA.

remove the unit.


4. lets look at the engine bay now. the AIV solenoid is located left of the plenum just in front of the battery. trace the hose back to the assembly and disconnect.

here is where the other hose leads to the drivers side unit. disconnect this hose from the solenoid as well so you can pull it through when you do that unit.

5. once both units are out, if your egr is still functional, i suggest removing the "T" near the solenoid and plugging the remaining single vacuum hose with the golf tee trick.

IMPORTANT
make sure you either get testpipes/aftermarket midpipes, or cap the holes in the stock pipes, or youre going to have a large annoying exhaust leak. Yugobernie(NoVa) sells the correct thread plugs for this purpose, i suggest taking advantage of that.

youre done!

now marvel at your pile of crap.

-Andrew
'90 Aztec Red NA
AIM: revescenin OR epsilaptop

     
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